2026-02-02 02:00:00
The modern era of VR started a long time ago, and a wide range of commercial headsets have proliferated on the market since then. If you don’t want to buy off the shelf, though, you could always follow [Manolo]’s example and build your own.
This DIY headset is known as the Persephone 3 Lite, and is intended for use with SteamVR. It’s got the requisite motion tracking thanks to a Raspberry Pi Pico, paired with an MPU6500 inertial measurement unit. As for the optics, the headset relies on a pair of 2.9-inch square displays that operate at a resolution of 1440 x 1440 with a refresh rate up to 90 Hz. They’re paired with cheap Fresnel lenses sourced from Aliexpress for a few dollars. Everything is wrapped up in a custom 3D-printed housing that holds all the relevant pieces in the right place so that your eyes can focus on both screens at once. The head strap is perhaps the only off-the-shelf piece, sourced from a Quest 2 device.
If you’re eager to recreate this build at home, files are available over on [Manolo’s] Patreon page for subscribers. We’ve featured some other DIY headset builds before, too. Video after the break.
2026-02-01 23:00:00
Sometimes you need to use a computer and you don’t have a spare keyboard and mouse on hand. [KoStard] figured an iPhone could serve as a passable replacement interface device. To that end, he built an adapter to let the phone act as a wireless keyboard and mouse on just about any modern machine.
To achieve this, [KoStard] grabbed an ESP32-S3 development board, and programmed it to act as a USB HID device to any machine attached over USB. It then listens out for Bluetooth LE communications from an iPhone equipped with the companion app. The app provides an on-screen keyboard on the iPhone that covers everything including special keys, symbols, and punctuation. You can also take advantage of the iPhone’s quality capacitive touchscreen, which emulates a nicely-responsive trackpad, with two-finger taps used for right clicking and two-finger drags for scroll. Latency is nice and low courtesy of the direct Bluetooth LE connection.
It’s a nifty build that is particularly useful in oddball situations where you might want a keyboard and mouse. For example, [KoStard] notes it’s a great way to control a Smart TV without having to do ugly slow “typing” on an infrared remote. We’ve seen his work before, too—previously building an adapter to provide Bluetooth capability to any old USB keyboard. Video after the break.
2026-02-01 20:00:00
PostmarketOS is a Linux distribution specifically designed for those who wish to repurpose old smartphones as general-use computers, to a degree. This can be a great way to reuse old hardware. However, for [Bry50], it was somewhat discomforting leaving the phone’s aging lithium battery perpetually on charge. A bit of code was thus whipped up to provide a greater measure of safety.
The concept is simple enough—lithium batteries are at lower risk of surprise combustion events if they’re held at a lower state of charge. To this end, [Bry50] modified the device tree in PostmarketOS to change the maximum charge level. Apparently, maximum charge was set at a lofty 4.4V (100%), but this was reconfigured to a lower level of 3.8V, corresponding to a roughly 40-50% state of charge. The idea is that this is a much healthier way to maintain a battery hooked up to power for long periods of time. There’s one small hitch—the system will get confused if the battery voltage is higher than the 3.8 V setpoint when switching over. It’s thus important to let the device discharge to a lower level if you choose to make this change.
It’s a neat mod that both increases safety, but keeps the battery on hand to let the system ride through minor power outages. If you’re new to the world of repurposing old smartphones, fear not. [Bryan] also has a tutorial on getting started with PostmarketOS for the unfamiliar. If you’re working on your own projects in this space, we’d love to hear about them—so get on over to the tipsline!
2026-02-01 17:00:00
The development of cheaper, more powerful lasers has always been a cause for excitement among hackers, and fiber lasers are no exception. One of the newer tools they’ve enabled is the laser welder, which can be used to weld, cut through metal, or clean off surfaces. Or, as [Cranktown City] demonstrated, you can use one to build a metal 3D printer.
The printer’s built around a 2000-Watt fiber laser welder from Skyfire, and the motion system came from a defunct secondhand 3D printer built by an out-of-business insole printing company. The frame was reinforced with steel, the welding gun was mounted in place of the hotend, and the trigger was replaced with a CNC-controlled switch. It didn’t originally use any specific shielding gas, since the welder was supposed to perform adequately with just compressed air if high weld quality wasn’t essential.
The first few tests were promising, but did reveal quite a few problems. Heat buildup was an early issue which threatened to warp the build plate, and which eventually welded the build plate to the Z-axis gantry. Adding a strong cooling fan and putting a gap between the build plate and the gantry solved this. The wire also kept getting stuck to the build surface, which [Cranktown City] solved by pausing the wire feed and pulling it away from the part when a layer finished. Simply using compressed air led to a weak deposit that cracked easily, and while a nitrogen stream improved the print somewhat, argon shielding gas gave the best results. For his final print, [Cranktown City] made a vase. The layers were a bit crude, but better than most welder-based metal printers, and the system shows some real promise.
We’ve seen a few printers built around welders before, and a few built around lasers, but this seems to be the first to use both.
2026-02-01 14:00:52
[Alex Hao] and [Andreas Bastian] of Lumafield recently visited with [Adam Savage] to share their battery quality report, which documents their findings after performing X-ray computed tomography scans on over 1,000 18650 lithium-ion batteries.
The short version — don’t buy cheap cells! The cheaper brands were found to have higher levels of manufacturing defects which can lead them to being unsafe. All the nitty-gritty details are available in the report, which can be downloaded for free from Lumafield, as well as the Tested video they did with [Adam] below.
Actually we’ve been talking here at Hackaday over at our virtual water-cooler (okay, okay, our Discord server) about how to store lithium-ion batteries and we learned about this cool bit of kit: the BAT-SAFE. Maybe check that out if you’re stickler for safety like us! (Thanks Maya Posch!)
We have of course heard from [Adam Savage] before, check out [Adam Savage] Giving A Speech About The Maker Movement and [Adam Savage]’s First Order Of Retrievability Tool Boxes.
2026-02-01 11:00:01
Dy default, the slicing software used for 3D printers has the printer first create the walls around the edges of a print, then goes back to deposit the infill pattern. [NeedItMakeIt], however, experimented with a different approach to line placement, and found significant strength improvements for some filaments.
The problem, as [NeedItMakeIt] identified with a thermal camera, is that laying down walls around a print gives the extruded plastic time to cool of. This means new plastic is being deposited onto an already-cooled surface, which reduces bonding strength. Instead, he used an aligned rectilinear fill pattern to print the solid parts. In this pattern, the printer is usually extruding filament right next to the filament it just deposited, which is still hot and therefore adheres better. The extrusion pattern is also aligned vertically, which might improve inter-layer bonding at the transition point.
To try it out, he printed a lever-type test piece, then recorded the amount of force it took to break a column free from the base. He tried it with a default fill pattern, aligned fill, and aligned fill with a single wall around the outside, and printed copies in PLA, plain PETG, and carbon fiber-reinforced PETG. He found that aligned fill improved strength in PLA and carbon fiber PETG, in both cases by about 46%, but led to worse performance in plain PETG. Strangely, the aligned fill with a single outside wall performed better than default for PLA, but worse than default in both forms of PETG. The takeaway seems to be that aligned fill improves layer adhesion when it’s lacking, but when adhesion is already good, as with PETG, it’s a weaker pattern overall.
Interesting, [MakeItPrintIt]’s test results fit in well with previous testing that found carbon fiber makes prints weaker. Another way to get stronger print fill patterns is with brick layers.
