Wild Cherry is an intimate, devastatingly glamorous restaurant set inside the lobby of the Cherry Lane Theatre, a famously scrappy West Village playhouse that was purchased, in 2023, by the indie-film production company A24. The new owners oversaw a top-to-toe upgrade of the century-old venue, sprucing up the seats and revamping the lobbies and bathrooms down to the tiniest detail. Wild Cherry, which is operated by the chef-restaurateurs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, of Frenchette and Le Veau d’Or, has taken up residence in a windowless space that was once a black-box theatre-within-the-theatre for showing experimental works.
The theme isn’t subtle: the restaurant is a clubby little boîte, gussied to the nines in haute-theatrical fashion, with fern-frond wallpaper, checkerboard floors, and marquee lights dotting a proscenium-shaped archway. The old-school pizzazz extends to the bottle-green leather of the banquettes; the way the barrel-vaulted ceiling grasps and releases the light fixtures’ glow; the fuzzy glimmer of a zinc-topped, U-shaped bar that takes up much of the room; the enormous, bathtub-like booths against opposite walls that call out to host a splashy, celebrity-adjacent dinner party. But something gleefully strange is detectable beneath all that greasepaint, something off-kilter that stays true to the purity and absurdity of live theatre and its lovers. This is evident in the pastiche quality of the menu, which features a bit of Italian American social club, a dash of Midwestern veterans’ lodge, an edge of Old New York ritziness, and—these are the Frenchette folks, after all—an indelible streak of French bistro.

This could have easily been chaos, but it reads as mere idiosyncrasy, thanks to the sheer force of Wild Cherry’s appeal as a place to while away a few stylish hours. The music is hopping (when was the last time you heard “Ca’-Ba’-Dab,” by the Soul Swingers, and why isn’t every restaurant playing it on a loop?), and the mood is as warm as the lighting, with affable servers and bar staff whose enthusiasm is infectious. The cocktails skew tiki—a quart-size scorpion bowl with your dinner?—but they’re great, well-balanced and cleverly composed, like a zero-proof piña colada that gets heft and depth from hojicha, or a sherry highball tarted up with amaro and a splash of cola.
The sense of both seriousness and play extends to the food. Among a selection of chilled seafood is a showpiece-y whole Dungeness crab served “à la russe,” with stripes of finely minced chives, capers, and sieved egg; and a gorgeous scungilli salad, the tender slices of conch laced with celery leaves in a punchy vinaigrette, and served piled into the creature’s giant, whorling shell. The approach, over all, is eclectic but committed: a brawny kielbasa, redolent of garlic and studded with melty Comté, sits atop a languid bed of sauerkraut; hunks of chermoula-painted monkfish are laced on skewers and served with a tapenade of olives and raisins. Frogs’ legs—which Hanson and Nasr catapulted back into fashion with a persillade version at Le Veau d’Or—are battered and fried like little chicken drumettes, then glossed in butter and spangled with herbs. The menu’s only pasta is fettuccine Alfredo, a dish so earnestly out of style that it becomes viciously cool again; the sauce, made the traditional way, from just butter, Parmigiano, and an emulsifying splash of pasta water, is tossed together tableside by a server, sending fine particles of cheese flying everywhere like a joyous puff of confetti. For a hundred and twenty dollars, you can get a steak dinner for two, which includes a substantial Denver-cut filet, a lovely green salad, and an audaciously retrograde baked potato, which is also available à la carte, and which I plan to order regularly, alone at the bar, with a dirty Martini, and maybe a slab of pineapple-and-coconut cake for dessert.


Not all the oddness works. A lobster club sandwich was messy and too bread-forward, the sweetness of the meat overpowered by forcefully smoky rashers of bacon. A pair of chicken thighs served atop crispy frites—“thighs and fries,” the menu winks—is unremarkable, the meat underseasoned and encased in flabby skin. The fries, at least, are terrific, crisp and precise; they’re at their best eaten alongside the cheeseburger, which is maybe the star of the whole show, a standout even in a city overcrowded with fancy cheeseburgers. (This is no surprise, perhaps, given Hanson and Nasr’s role in creating the fabled Black Label burger for Minetta Tavern, way back when.) Its austere appearance—tidy, compact, no fripperies—belies a lascivious richness within: the beef is ground with marrow, the patty cooked to a yielding medium rare, the bun slicked with sauce choron, a béarnaise pinked up and slightly sweetened with a bit of tomato paste. Topped with a slice of cheddar and a few rounds of raw onion, it is served cut in half, which I’m sure will scandalize some purists, but it’s a thoughtful stroke of night-life engineering: a halved burger can be eaten with just one hand, so there’s no need to put down your drink.

Apart from little boxes of popcorn presented as a bar snack, there doesn’t seem to be any obvious symbiosis between Wild Cherry and the theatre it inhabits, and, if you happen to arrive when a show is beginning or letting out, the shared lobby can feel like a bit of a free-for-all. But once you’re inside, past the red-velvet curtain, at the host's vestibule, it really is transportive, in part because the restaurant’s mood of affectionate self-regard feels tinged with an anticipatory haze of nostalgia. With all its meticulous art direction and scene-setting, its A24-inflected sense of constructed narrative, it seems designed to age into a faded, charismatic reminiscence of itself. Thirty or forty years from now, when there’s dust in the corners and mending marks on the banquettes and an aging-diva sheen of once-was hanging over it all, the place will be most fully itself. Right now, we’re dining in the memory of an old haunt that’s still brand-new. ♦








