On October 10th, in a cabin on a sleeper train operated by Ukrainian Railways, I found myself sitting across from a quiet young man named Klim Milchenko. The train had set out from his home town of Zaporizhzhia, a city in southeastern Ukraine, at 8:48 P.M. the night before. About sixteen hours later, after travelling more than five hundred miles, it made a stop in Lviv, where I boarded. Milchenko and I were both bound for Poland. I was going to Kraków, on a hastily planned vacation. Milchenko was en route to Wrocław, where his mother lives. I planned to return to Ukraine in ten days. Milchenko didn’t know if he would ever go back.
When Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine, on February 24, 2022, the Ukrainian government barred nearly all men between the ages of eighteen and sixty from leaving the country. This year, on August 28th, it lifted the ban for men under the age of twenty-three. Milchenko was twenty-two—he was on the train that day because he wanted to get out while he legally still could. Never mind that the current age for draft eligibility in Ukraine is twenty-five. The government had already lowered the age once, in April of 2024. Who’s to say it won’t lower it again? Not wanting to wait to find out—and, in the meantime, risk being killed by a drone or missile in one of Russia’s frequent attacks on Ukrainian cities—Milchenko decided to leave. He told me that he didn’t feel guilty about it. “When you have friends who have been killed, when you see how soldiers are living on the front line, when you see how that could be your life, it’s a very scary thing,” he said. “Maybe it’s selfish, but I just want to stay alive.”
Milchenko was living in Kyiv when the travel rules changed. He began packing up his apartment the next day. He sold his Yamaha scooter and said goodbye to his two remaining friends, both of whom were staying in Ukraine only because they were too old to go. He then took a bus to Zaporizhzhia to see his father, a fifty-year-old businessman who owns a small shopping center in the city. On Milchenko’s second day home, draft officers picked up his father during a traffic stop and took him to a conscription center. Milchenko went with his grandmother to visit him two days later. “My grandma was nervous,” he said. “She was afraid they might take me, too.” Milchenko was pleased to find his father in good spirits. He told Milchenko that he wasn’t sure where he’d be sent to serve, but that it wouldn’t be the front line. “When we left, I felt like he would be O.K.,” Milchenko said.
Milchenko boarded the train to Poland with two backpacks. (He had mailed ahead a large box of clothes.) He spent most of the journey sleeping and watching YouTube on his phone. When we were thirty minutes from the border, a steward came by to tell us to be ready with our travel documents. Milchenko had been preparing himself for this moment for weeks. He had checked, and double-checked, that his military registration, which Ukrainian men get when they turn seventeen, was up to date and had watched informational videos posted on TikTok about, among other things, what to say to Polish immigration officials. “If they ask you how long you plan to stay,” a job recruiter advises in one video, “say a few days, or a week, at most.” Milchenko looked nervous.
The train came to a stop at a border-control station. Outside, it was gray and raining. A drug-sniffing dog peeked its head in our cabin, followed by a Ukrainian border guard who appeared to be only a few years older than Milchenko. The guard took our passports and looked over Milchenko’s military registration. He returned with our passports an hour later.
“Klim Milchenko?” the guard asked, reading from the photo page of Milchenko’s passport.
“Yes,” Milchenko replied. “That’s me.”
The guard handed him back his passport without saying a word. The train didn’t leave the station for another two hours. When the steward came by our cabin again, Milchenko asked why we were still sitting there. The steward said it was because two men had been detained. I don’t know who the men were, or if they were allowed back on the train.
The war in Ukraine is a war of attrition. And even before the Trump Administration presented, last week, a twenty-eight-point plan to end it—a plan that, at least in its initial form, would require Ukraine to surrender territory, reduce the size of its military, and promise not to join NATO—Russia, with a population more than three and a half times the size of Ukraine’s, had taken the upper hand. On October 27th, the Ukrainian President, Volodymyr Zelensky, told reporters that Russian troops outnumbered Ukrainian troops eight to one in the ongoing battle for Pokrovsk, a strategically important city in the eastern region of Donetsk. Then, earlier this month, Russian forces took advantage of dense fog to capture fifteen square miles in the neighboring region of Zaporizhzhia. According to Deepstate, a Ukrainian organization that monitors changes on the battlefield, it was Russia’s largest single-day territorial gain of the year.
Elsewhere, Russian missiles have devastated Ukraine’s energy infrastructure, leading to power outages across the country and further demoralizing a public that is increasingly fed up with the war, and whose patience with the Zelensky administration is being tried by a corruption scandal involving a hundred million dollars in kickbacks allegedly paid by contractors in, of all things, the energy sector. Morale among troops is equally, if not more, diminished, as many wait for replacements that have yet to come. Hundreds of thousands of Ukrainian men have gone into hiding or fled abroad to avoid military service. Ukraine’s State Border Guard Service estimates that about seventy have died trying to escape through forests and across rivers. And many of those who have been drafted and sent to the front line have deserted their positions at the first opportunity. “They just start walking west,” a soldier who has been fighting near Pokrovsk told me. “If they don’t get killed by a Russian drone, they’re usually picked up and brought back to the front. Then they wait and try again. No one can make them want to fight.” Between January and October of this year, Ukraine’s Prosecutor General’s Office reportedly opened more than a hundred and eighty thousand cases of desertion and absence without leave, bringing the total since the start of the full-scale invasion to three hundred and eleven thousand.
In the midst of such an acute manpower shortage, the Ukrainian government’s decision to give thousands of young men the option to go abroad has divided military experts. Zelensky has defended the new travel rule by saying that it will help dissuade young men from leaving at an even earlier age. “If we want to keep Ukrainian boys in Ukraine, then we need them to finish school here, and parents must not take them abroad,” he said at a press briefing after the rule went into effect. “But they are beginning to take them abroad before they graduate. And this is very bad, because at that time they lose their connection with Ukraine.” He went on to say that the change would have no impact on the country’s defense capabilities. Simon Schlegel, the Ukraine program director at the Center for Liberal Modernity, in Berlin, told me that while that might be true for now, the new rule could lead to problems in the future. “It narrows the mobilization pool for three years down the road when these men would become eligible,” he said.
The new rule has also been criticized by some of Ukraine’s closest partners. In a phone call on November 13th, the German Chancellor, Friedrich Merz, asked Zelensky to do something to prevent so many young Ukrainian men from coming to Germany. They should “serve their country,” Merz said after the call, though he may have his own country in mind, too. Although figures vary, the number of Ukrainian men between the ages of eighteen and twenty-two entering Germany rose from nineteen per week in mid-August to between fourteen hundred and eighteen hundred per week in October, per the German Interior Ministry. (Since the war began, Germany has granted what’s known as temporary protection to more than 1.2 million Ukrainians, the most of any country in the European Union.) Poland, too, has seen a major influx of Ukrainian men in the same age range—more than a hundred and twenty-one thousand since the end of August, according to the Polish Border Guard, up from about thirty-four thousand over the previous eight months. Many of those men will pass through Poland on their way to somewhere else, but others, like Milchenko, have decided to stay. “It feels like I’m starting a new life,” he said.

Klim Milchenko by the Oder River.
Photograph courtesy Klim MilchenkoIn early November, I went to visit Milchenko in Wrocław. We met at a café across from a KFC in the city’s Old Town. A bronze statue of a gnome, one of more than eleven hundred scattered around the city, stood out front. Milchenko, who is tall and slender, with short light-brown hair, was wearing a black sweater, gray jeans, and sneakers. He was only slightly more relaxed than he had been on the train. Sipping a pumpkin-spice latte, he told me that he had been spending much of his time since arriving in Wrocław looking for work. “I’ve sent my C.V. to thirty different places,” he said. “So far, I’ve only heard back from a swimming pool. I told them that I had worked as a lifeguard in Kyiv, and was certified, but they said they wanted someone else.”
Milchenko speculated that the swimming pool was looking for someone older—or a native Pole. He’d heard stories of Ukrainians in Poland being discriminated against, and worse. In September, someone spray-painted “to the front” on the hood of a Ukrainian woman’s car, and a thirty-two-year-old Polish man was charged with shooting and seriously injuring a Romanian man whom he thought was Ukrainian. Both incidents occurred in Wrocław. Nationwide, polls show that public support for accepting Ukrainian refugees has been slowly but steadily declining. It’s currently at its lowest level since Russia annexed Crimea, in 2014 . Poland’s new President, Karol Nawrocki, has vowed to tighten restrictions on the government support they receive, and the far-right Confederation Party has accused Ukrainian men who moved to Poland of “burdening Polish taxpayers with the costs of their desertion.” (A study conducted by Poland’s National Development Bank found that Ukrainians actually pay more in taxes than they receive in benefits.)
Whatever the reason he was turned down for the job, Milchenko tried not to let it discourage him. “I’m sure I’ll find something,” he said. He was in the process of getting his Polish driver’s license. His mother, who moved to Wrocław in 2019, has a car that she rarely uses. “My mom’s old boyfriend is a taxi-driver,” he said. “I wouldn’t mind doing that.” He also knew a Ukrainian guy who had recently gotten a job at a warehouse in town. “I’m waiting to hear what he thinks of it,” Milchenko said. “If he likes it, I’ll apply there, too.”
After we finished our coffee, Milchenko and I grabbed bagel sandwiches for lunch and walked to the Oder River, which bisects Wrocław. It was a cool, sunny afternoon, and the red-tiled roofs of the city gave way to a bright-blue sky. On our way to the river, we passed a seventeenth-century Baroque church whose foundation stones were pocked with bullet holes from the Second World War. We tried to go inside, but the door was locked. “I came here with my mom once,” Milchenko said. “It’s one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever seen.” Milchenko had lived in Wrocław on and off for several years before Russia invaded Ukraine in 2022. During that time, he studied Polish—he now speaks it conversationally—and earned money by delivering food for Uber Eats on his bike and working at an Amazon fulfillment center. He eventually enrolled in a computer-science program at the local campus of a private university. “I had a girlfriend and was starting to make friends,” he said. “It was probably the first time I felt good in Wrocław.” In November of 2021, he went home to Zaporizhzhia to apply for a new passport. Then, three months later, the invasion began, and he was barred from leaving.
Milchenko moved to Kyiv in May of 2023, in part to be farther away from the front line. (At the time, Russian forces were roughly twenty-five miles south of Zaporizhzhia.) He got the lifeguard gig, and spent the first few months on beaches along the Dnipro River. One day, an air-raid alert sounded while he was on duty on Trukhaniv Island. He pointed everyone who was there in the direction of the nearest shelter, but almost no one went. “The alerts had become a part of daily life by then,” he said. “Most people, including me, just didn’t take them seriously.” A few minutes later, a missile exploded in the water about a half mile away, next to a bridge. Milchenko ran into a nearby brick building and waited for the all-clear.
Like almost every Ukrainian I’ve met, Milchenko has become intimately acquainted with tragic and untimely deaths. Most recently, on April 2nd, he told me, a friend of his named Sasha was sitting in his car outside the main train station in Kryvyi Rih, a city in central Ukraine, when a ballistic missile landed nearby. The explosion shattered the car’s windows, spraying Sasha with shards of glass. He was killed instantly. “He had gone to the station to pick up his mom,” Milchenko said. “He was such a good person. He didn’t deserve to die.”
We reached the Oder River, in the middle of Wrocław. Milchenko said he was grateful that the city had a river—and that he could visit it without having to worry about drone and missile strikes. I asked him how his father was doing. “He has some problems with his back,” he said. He’d soon get a medical exam to determine what kind of military duties he could be ordered to fulfill. For now, he was stationed in a small town north of Kyiv, nowhere near the front line.
As we walked across a bridge that led to the northern part of the city, Milchenko asked where I was from in the United States.
“Kansas,” I told him.
“Like Tom Sawyer,” he said.
“No, he’s from Missouri,” I replied. “But it’s right next to Kansas.”
“Have you been to the Mississippi River?” he asked.
“I have,” I said. “It’s huge, like the Dnipro.”
“That’s what I’ve heard,” he said. “I’d love to see it someday.”
Milchenko isn’t sure how long he’ll stay in Poland. He’d like to take a road trip to Paris when he gets his driver’s license, and visit a friend in Germany. He’s also thought about trying to get a job on a crabbing boat in Norway. “I’ve seen videos on Instagram of Ukrainians who do that,” he said. “The work looks hard, but they make a lot of money.” I asked him whether, if the war were to end the next day, he would move back to Ukraine. He was silent for a long moment. “I don’t know,” he said. “It’s a hard question. I really don’t know.” ♦



















